Hiking the Kirishima-yaku National Park

After Matt (a fellow Muni ALT) had a mix up of planned hiking weekends, I decided to go hiking to the Kirishima ranges anyway (3 days weekends don't come along too often). After 3 trains, 2 buses and a taxi ride, I finally made it to Ebino Kogen. One surprising thing on the way was..... tea fields. I had to look twice to make sure. Although Japan is famous for green tea, the only tea fields I had seen were in Sri Lanka. Anyway...... After going to the visitors centre for a map, which ended up being diagrammatic not topographic, I walked around the Ebino Kogen area. This area has a few beautiful crater lakes surrounded by woodlands. This area is made for all walkers, i.e a gravel level path... sometimes cobblestoned. I went bush a few times which proved to be very rewarding. Knowing I had time, I trekked off to Koshiki-dake (1301m). Walking through the woods I saw a few deer and depended solely on pink take markers on the trees. Otherwise, the track was indistinct. Climbing up the mountain was tough but the view at the top was beautiful. I could see all of the area that I had just walked including the beautiful blue of the crater lakes. After having a little rest on top, 3 other hikers in the 60s (I guess) told me that I could go through "there" to see the crater/grass plateau. It was very beautiful and proved to be a great resting stop. In Japan you don't often get to lie down in lush green grass and stare at the sky hearing nothing but the wind and crickets. I returned and checked into my very cheap tatami cabin. If anyone goes here make sure you buy your food before the shops shut as by 7 or something its like a ghost town.

I set off at 6 to try and get as far up Karakuni-dake (1700m) as I could before sunrise. I missed sunrise from the top but was glad I didn't have to trek up in the dark. One man at the top showed me his sunrise pictures with me. Looking at the kanji of Karakuni-dake is translated to Korea Mountain, this is because on a clear day you can apparently see Korea. I obviously didn't get to see Korea but could see Sakurajima and Kagoshima City and everything else in between. Quite breathtaking. The sheer drop from Karakuni-dake into its crater was scary, but it didn't stop me from bum shuffling to get a good photo. My fear of heights is still around but I think it would get the adrenaline pumping in anyone. From Karakunidake I walked down across Shishito-dake (1429m), Shinmoe-dake (1421m) and Naka-dake(1332m). Within this one hike there were so many different terrains. Loose rock/dirt, slippery dirt/clay paths with wouldn't have let anyone very big pass, gravel type paths, some awkwardly spaced boardwalk steps towards the end that's not to mention the leg muscle building ascents. It was rewarding looking back across all the mountains. By 11:30am I had made it to the foot of Takachiho-dake where majority of the people were starting from.

After some lunch, a much needed foot rub and a water refill, I set off up Takachiho-dake (1574m). It was a little harder going up this mountain knowing that I had to come back the same way. That and my legs were pretty sore by this stage. The loose rocky soil wasn't easy. There were people of all ages trudging up the mountain. I had a good chat with some people at the top of the mountain who couldn't believe that I had come from Ebino Kogen that morning. They thought I just couldn't remember the mountain names until I pulled out the map and showed them. Oh well, I was pretty beat by this stage but was determined to get up the last mountain. We had to walk along the crater wall which connected to Takachiho-dake. On the side of Takachiho-dake the ground had turned from red and rocky to black and soft. My socks are stained a great colour now from this combination. The wind had picked up and even thought it was not much passed midday the fog rolled in and reduced visibility to basically nothing. The only indication that the top was approaching was a flag that was flapping hard in the wind. No view from the top but it was surprising to see a shrine there. The way back was tough not seeing and the wind was really strong. Walking across the crater wall knowing the each side dropped away was something out of a movie and a test on the heart. At the bottom I got talking to a their High School hiking club . They had seen me before going up Takachiho-dake so wanted to have a chat. Their teacher ended up leaving me in to take care of them while he went and got the car from where I had started. They had done the same hike without the last mountain. They did buy me an ice cream which was nice of them. I was waiting for the bus anyway. As luck would have it the teachers arrived back when my bus pulled up.

Throughout the day I passed a fair few other hikers who were all surprised that I was hiking alone. I must say there are advantages and disadvantages to it. More people will talk to you along the way if you are by yourself, it is also tranquil and great that you can set your own pace and stop whenever you like. I daresay I would talked and scared of the deer and other wildlife had I been with anyone. The disadvantage is not being able to share the experience and beautiful things you see with anyone.

A bus and train ride got me back to Kagoshima to stay in a ryokan. If you ever want to really appreciate a hot shower go hiking for 8 or so hours before hand.. it's heaven!
Considering it was a long weekend, I had some time left in Kagoshima, I went to Iso area where there is a beautiful garden, old villa for a lord, ruins from a steel factory and the factory of the the famous Satsuma cut glass. You also have a beautiful view of Sakura-jima from this area. A great weekend away. I definitely recommend the hike to everyone with some kind of fitness.